Mouth-watering kebabs, aromatic biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has forever been a dream destination for epicures, with inhabitants and visitors alike praising its remarkable cuisine.
An International Accolade
In a recent announcement, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization designated it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – adding it to a select roster of world cities and sparking hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's peerless food. With this designation, it enters a international community of over 400 metropolises across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "creativity as a catalyst of sustainable urban development".
The accolade "demonstrates its centuries-old food heritage and vibrant culinary scene," as noted by a official from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to earn a spot in this highly sought-after list of 70 global destinations around the world.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The accolade for this historic city is hardly a shock to its residents or dedicated food lovers. Many share the opinion that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO designation, this cherished, chaotic, and vibrant city – the capital of India's biggest state – is at last in the spotlight for what has consistently defined its essence: an profound devotion for food.
"'The day's menu, how will it be cooked' is a constant discussion from morning until night in many homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are often assessed by the standard of food that is produced in your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of the Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th-century wealthy Muslim rulers – is famed for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were created, perfected, and raised to exquisite levels in their royal kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were epicenters of food experimentation, merging Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were fashioned. As the tale is told that the mutton galouti was invented to feed an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks processed the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so silky that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, slow heat, with the pot's lid tightly closed with a flour paste.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Apart from the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a collection of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only celebrates seasonal produce but also gives the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Nearly on every corner, there are small establishments and kiosks – lesser-known treasures that are immensely loved by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, large gatherings start gathering from early morning at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in kulhads, along with incredibly soft buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can visit a unpretentious joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was founded, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also offers remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert found in the winter. The technique of making it is intricate and demanding. The cook beats the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing light consistency.
On cold mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many but note that their younger generation are reluctant to learn the craft.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's rich food legacy positions it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – influenced by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to busy restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The global recognition, it is hoped, will encourage more people globally to discover these narratives and visit the city to savour the food wonders of Lucknow.